best places to visit in puglia

The Best Places to Visit in Puglia: Italy’s Enchanting Heel

Puglia, the heel of Italy’s boot, remains one of the country’s most captivating yet underappreciated regions. While Tuscany has long dominated the attention of travelers, Puglia offers a raw, authentic Italian experience that feels both ancient and refreshingly unspoiled. From its distinctive architecture to its sun-drenched coastlines, this southeastern corner of Italy delivers a unique blend of experiences for the discerning traveler. Here’s my comprehensive guide to the best places to visit in Puglia, based on decades of exploring this remarkable region.

Introduction: Discovering Puglia’s Unique Charm

My relationship with Puglia began with skepticism. Like many travelers, I initially dismissed the region’s iconic trulli as quaint curiosities – those conical-roofed structures that dot the countryside like something from a fairy tale. I was wary of the “New Tuscany” label that travel magazines had begun attaching to the region, suspecting it was merely marketing hype.

Though I had been dazzled by Lecce’s baroque splendor on a brief visit some 25 years ago, it wasn’t until last summer, south of Otranto, that Puglia truly captured my heart. There, where the landscape is armored with rock and ancient olive trees stand as ornate as cathedrals, I finally understood the region’s profound allure. With the Punta Palascìa lighthouse gazing out to sea, marking Italy’s easternmost point, I felt the unique magic that makes Puglia special.

The Geographical Soul of Puglia

What sets Puglia apart is its geographical positioning – caught between the Adriatic and Ionian seas, it exists as a kind of island despite being connected to the mainland. This position creates a distinct feeling of being peripheral, at the end of something and the beginning of something else, fostering connections with other worlds.

The region’s white cubist houses evoke North Africa, while its labyrinthine towns might remind visitors of Istanbul’s backstreets. Unlike the elegant Renaissance paintings of Tuscany, Puglia presents a grittier, less considered aesthetic – raw-edged, big-skied, and flooded with ocean light. The seas rival the Caribbean in clarity, while sections of the coastline could be mistaken for the Scottish Highlands.

This distinctive character hasn’t gone unnoticed. Celebrities like Helen Mirren, Meryl Streep, and Gérard Depardieu have all fallen under Puglia’s spell. Yet its greatest admirers remain ordinary Italians who flock here each summer for its exceptional food, pristine seas, welcoming people, and refreshing simplicity.

The Eternal Puglian Summer

One of Puglia’s most compelling attractions is its seemingly endless summer, which lingers deep into autumn, sometimes even brushing against November. These long summer days carry a nostalgic quality, reminiscent of childhood freedom among sand and rock beneath bone-melting heat.

The sensory experience is intoxicating: the resinous scent of pine mingling with oleander, the high-pitched drone of cicadas, the simple pleasure of calamari and ice-cold beer, and the warm glow of sun on skin. The atmosphere embodies true relaxation – beach umbrellas gently ruffled by the sirocco wind, bronzed limbs unfolding in hammocks, long, disheveled lunches, and jugs of rosé wine that seem to replenish themselves.

This environment creates the perfect backdrop for summery oblivion and even fleeting summer romances, making Puglia not just a place to visit but a feeling to experience.

Historical Crossroads of the Mediterranean

What makes Puglia’s current perception as remote particularly ironic is its historical significance. Far from being peripheral, Puglia once served as the center of the known world, one of the great intersections of the Mediterranean.

Throughout centuries, the region absorbed influences from Greeks, Arabs, Romans, Byzantines, Normans, Venetians, North Africans, Turks, and Dalmatians. This rich historical tapestry remains visible today in towns filled with echoing palaces, barn-like churches, and castles with walls as thick as modern highways.

The Masserie: Puglia’s True Icons

While trulli might be Puglia’s most recognizable structures, the masserie (fortified farmhouses) represent the region’s true architectural icons. Born from necessity during times when pirates threatened the coastline, these structures evolved into self-contained worlds, walled, gated, and whitewashed against the Puglian sun.

The masserie reflect regional individuality and historical concerns about family honor, women, and olive oil – the three treasures that needed protection. Their clean lines and white walls reveal the Greek influence, a reminder that Puglia sits closer to Greece than to Tuscany.

In recent years, these historical structures have been transformed into luxury accommodations by contemporary designers, symbolizing Puglia’s connection to the wider world and the gradual fading of old insularity.

Ostuni: The White City

Ostuni stands as one of Puglia’s most visually striking destinations. Perched on a hill overlooking the Adriatic, this gleaming white city appears to rise from the surrounding olive groves like a vision. Its whitewashed buildings, stacked haphazardly upon one another, create a maze of narrow streets, steps, and archways that invite exploration.

At the city’s heart lies Palazzo Rosso (now Paragon 700), a structure steeped in history and intrigue. Once serving as a convent, as evidenced by peepholes in the walls, it later became a meeting place for secret plots supporting Garibaldi and Italian unification in the 19th century. Within its walls, a secret orange grove hides like buried treasure, embodying the unexpected delights that Puglia offers to those willing to venture beyond the obvious.

The city’s main square, Piazza della Libertà, comes alive in the evenings when locals participate in the traditional passeggiata (evening stroll), creating a vibrant atmosphere perfect for people-watching while enjoying an aperitivo at one of the outdoor cafés.

Salento: Europe’s Land’s End

The southernmost stretch of Puglia, known as Salento, represents the stiletto of the Puglian boot and feels truly like Europe’s Land’s End. Here, the landscape grows stark and bony, populated with wild figs, contorted olive trees, and pomegranates.

Ancient towers still stand watch for Turks – a threat until 1571 – facing toward Albania across the sea. Surprisingly, parts of Salento bear a striking resemblance to Donegal in Ireland, suggesting a shared bleak, windswept ancestry among Europe’s extremities.

This area delivers some of Puglia’s most dramatic coastal scenery, with crystal-clear waters and hidden coves accessible only to those willing to venture off the beaten path. The region’s unique Griko culture, a linguistic minority with Greek roots, adds another fascinating layer to its cultural tapestry.

Gallipoli: The Pearl of the Ionian

Gallipoli, already ancient when Romans arrived, stands enclosed on three sides by the sea, creating the feeling of a ship halfway to Africa. The old town occupies an island connected to the mainland by a 16th-century bridge, creating an immediately enchanting atmosphere.

Narrow lanes between old palaces lead eventually to the wide “decks” of the seafront, where churches appear to lean forward like elaborate figureheads in the early morning light. The inner passageways create an intimate atmosphere filled with sudden discoveries – abandoned palaces, subterranean olive mills, and everyday life unfolding against a backdrop of extraordinary beauty.

As evening falls, locals and visitors alike participate in the elegant promenade along the seafront, while the lighthouse on a nearby island winks into the gathering dusk. The fish restaurants lining the harbor offer some of the freshest seafood in all of Italy, with outdoor tables positioned perfectly for watching the sunset over the Ionian Sea.

The newer part of town, connected to the historical center by a 17th-century bridge, offers a contrasting experience with modern amenities, shopping opportunities, and access to pristine beaches that stretch north and south along the coast.

The East Coast of Salento: A String of Coastal Gems

Puglia’s eastern coastline presents a series of enchanting towns worth exploring:

Santa Maria di Leuca

As the last town in Italy, Santa Maria di Leuca offers expansive views where the Ionian and Adriatic seas meet. Legend holds that St. Peter landed here, beginning the Christianization of Italy. The impressive 19th-century Basilica Sanctuary of Santa Maria de Finibus Terrae (“at the end of the land”) marks this historically significant spot.

The town’s elegant Liberty-style villas line the waterfront, creating a distinctive atmosphere that combines religious significance with seaside charm. The lighthouse, standing 47 meters tall on the Meliso promontory, offers breathtaking panoramic views for those willing to climb its 254 steps.

Castro

This picturesque town features a cute harbor and white houses cascading down to the sea. Popular with sophisticated Italian travelers during summer months, Castro maintains a relaxed authenticity despite its popularity. The medieval old town sits high above the marina, offering spectacular views and a handful of excellent restaurants serving traditional Puglian cuisine.

The nearby Grotta Zinzulusa, one of Italy’s most important marine caves, features stunning stalactites and stalagmites that have formed over millennia. Guided tours allow visitors to explore this natural wonder, adding another dimension to Castro’s appeal.

Santa Cesarea Terme

This turn-of-the-century spa town features splendid Moorish palaces promising various health benefits. The town’s thermal baths, fed by four underground sulfurous springs, have attracted wellness seekers for generations. The striking Villa Sticchi, with its ornate Moorish architecture and vibrant dome, stands as the town’s most photographed landmark.

The dramatic coastline features natural terraces carved into the rock where visitors can sunbathe and access the crystal-clear waters below. The annual Festa di Santa Cesarea, celebrating the town’s patron saint, offers a glimpse into local traditions with processions, music, and fireworks.

Otranto

Dominated by a colossal castle, Otranto gained literary fame as the setting for Horace Walpole’s “The Castle of Otranto,” considered the first Gothic novel. The town’s historical significance extends far beyond fiction, however, as evidenced by the Cathedral of Santa Maria Annunziata, which houses a remarkable 12th-century mosaic floor depicting the Tree of Life.

The town’s tragic history includes the martyrdom of 813 citizens who refused to convert to Islam during a Turkish invasion in 1480. Their remains are displayed in a side chapel of the cathedral, a sobering reminder of the town’s tumultuous past.

Otranto’s perfect natural harbor, surrounded by robust defensive walls, creates an incredibly photogenic setting that has remained largely unchanged for centuries. Just outside town, the Baia dei Turchi offers one of Puglia’s most beautiful beaches, with powdery white sand and turquoise waters.

The Significance of Salento Limestone

The soft, easily carved limestone of Salento plays a central role in the region’s architecture, art, and history. Containing sea fossils, this stone comes in various forms that local experts passionately distinguish: carparo, mazzaro, Lecce stone, and tufa.

This versatile material has influenced generations of sculptors, allowing them to highlight the complexity and tenderness of reality through intricate carvings. The stone’s malleability permitted architectural and decorative feats that would have been impossible with harder materials, creating a distinctive regional aesthetic.

Lecce: The Florence of the South

As Salento’s focal point, Lecce represents the fullest realization of the local limestone’s potential. Often called “the Florence of the South” (though Puglians might playfully dismiss this comparison), the city features nine colossal churches of extraordinarily delicate ornamentation, made possible by the unique properties of the local stone.

Numerous ornate palaces reflect Lecce’s history as a city of aristocrats. The city center, largely pedestrianized, creates an open-air museum where visitors can admire elaborate facades, intricate balconies, and whimsical decorative elements at every turn.

The Piazza del Duomo, surrounded by the Cathedral, Episcopal Palace, and Seminary, creates one of Italy’s most harmonious baroque squares. Nearby, the Church of Santa Croce represents the pinnacle of the Barocco Leccese style, with its fantastically detailed facade that took over a century to complete.

The Roman amphitheater in Piazza Sant’Oronzo, excavated in the 1930s, reminds visitors of the city’s ancient origins. Capable of seating 25,000 spectators, this structure dramatically illustrates Lecce’s historical significance long before its baroque flowering.

Barocco Leccese: A Style of Overheated Excess

Flourishing from the 16th to the 18th centuries, the Barocco Leccese style drew inspiration from Bernini’s Rome and the overheated excess of Eastern aesthetics. Characterized by a slightly hysterical tone, the style reached its peak during the Counter-Reformation when the Church used art to inspire religious devotion.

Churches like Sant’Irene and Santa Croce exemplify this approach, with surfaces completely covered in scenes, cherubs, animals, saints, and biblical narratives. The style extends beyond churches to city streets, where sculpted window frames and ornately decorated portals transform ordinary buildings into works of art.

At night, Lecce’s backstreets take on the quality of a film set, with antique street lamps creating dramatic chiaroscuro effects. This historical grandeur coexists with a very contemporary vibe characterized by excellent restaurants, emerging art galleries, and modern design.

The transformation of Palazzo Maresgallo into a contemporary art gallery and luxury hotel exemplifies how Lecce continuously reinvents itself while honoring its past. This harmonious blend of ancient and modern makes Lecce not just a place to admire but a living, evolving cultural center.

Alberobello: The Trulli Town

No discussion of Puglia would be complete without mentioning Alberobello, the UNESCO World Heritage site famous for its concentration of trulli. These distinctive conical-roofed structures, built using dry-stone techniques that date back to prehistoric times, create a landscape unlike any other in Italy.

While the central area can become crowded with tourists, wandering the quieter residential neighborhoods offers a more authentic experience. The Rione Monti and Aia Piccola districts contain hundreds of trulli, some now housing shops, restaurants, and accommodations.

For visitors interested in learning more about these unique structures, the Trullo Sovrano (Sovereign Trullo) serves as a museum illustrating the traditional lifestyle of trulli inhabitants. Standing two stories tall, it’s significantly larger than typical trulli and provides insight into the ingenuity behind these seemingly simple structures.

The Extended Summer and the Winds of Puglia

Puglia’s exceptional climate enables a remarkably long summer season, stretching from April to late October. Some particularly hardy souls continue sunbathing into November and even at Easter. This extended season makes Puglia an ideal destination for travelers seeking sunshine outside the peak summer months.

Local winds play a significant role in the region’s character. The north-easterly Grecale, considered delightful in summer, brings cooling breezes during hot days. Puglians possess intimate knowledge of their winds and attribute specific characteristics to each. The north winds of summer are believed to heal the heart, adding a poetic dimension to the region’s natural phenomena.

Conclusion: The Enduring Appeal of Puglia

What makes Puglia one of Italy’s best destinations is its ability to balance contradictions: ancient yet contemporary, familiar yet exotic, Italian yet somehow not quite. Unlike more famous Italian regions that have adapted to mass tourism over decades, Puglia maintains an authenticity and rawness that feels increasingly rare in our globalized world.

The best places to visit in Puglia offer travelers the opportunity to experience Italy as it once was – a place where traditions endure, food comes from nearby fields and waters, and time moves at a different pace. Whether exploring baroque churches in Lecce, wandering the white streets of Ostuni, watching the sunset from Gallipoli’s sea walls, or simply enjoying a long lunch at a masseria surrounded by ancient olive trees, Puglia rewards those who approach it with curiosity and openness.

As more travelers discover this remarkable region, Puglia will inevitably change. Yet something about its spirit – shaped by centuries at the crossroads of civilizations, tempered by harsh realities, and warmed by Mediterranean sun – seems likely to endure, continuing to captivate visitors for generations to come.